Bye Bus

My three-month bus card just expired, and I haven't got a replacement. Which means I am committed to cycling to and from work, even if it's raining. I feel like this is a positive life move - more exercise and no waiting around at bus stops, plus money saving. Undoubtedly I will be putting the bike into hibernation come late autumn though - don't fancy cycling in the snow or freezing gales. Or the dark, come to that. 

In other news, the aptitude test that I took for the MA in Translation Studies went well. My performance was described as "good". Which means that I'll be starting my third degree in September. This one might actually be of some practical use in the real world of trying to find gainful employment, and will also be the cheapest. No tuition fees in Iceland! What a great country this is.

Á Austurvelli og fleiri sögur

Hot weather and beers on Austurvöllur go together like a horse and marriage. It is like a heat-wave in Iceland right now, for serious. Here are some photos from an Austurvöllur session last Thursday after work. 

My legs enjoying the sunshine.
Kalli.
So photogenic.
Various people making a tiny bit of cash by collecting empty cans and bottles, because you get money back for them at the recycling place.
Ewelina, Bjarni and Logi. 
Me and Grétar in the glare of evening sunshine.
Extreme tanning/pinking.
Awesome photo face.
Bjarni.
I just got back from a weekend in Grímsnes with Grétar and a lot of his immediate and extended family. My first Icelandic ættarmót (family reunion)! There were loads of them, including some branches from the USA and from the UK, all staying in this group of summer houses for the weekend. I mostly just talked to Grétar's immediate family, but it was fun meeting some of the English and American relations - descendants of his great aunts, I think, possibly one was a great uncle, who moved abroad. There was a barbecue party Friday evening, and then we failed to get up in time for the coach trip round the golden circle on Saturday (coach driven by Grétar's father). Instead we had a leisurely breakfast and played on the trampoline until we got too hot. Oh my lord, Saturday was hot. At least twenty degrees and hardly a breath of wind. The tan is coming on leaps and bounds, you will be pleased to hear. 

Collapsed in the extreme heat.
In the afternoon we went to the swimming pool in the nearby town/village, which had a really good slide, and then got ice-cream from the shop. There was a dinner in the Félagsheimili there in the evening, and then we went back to the summer houses for cake and singing, which I enjoyed very much, especially the one song that I actually knew (Á Sprengisandi).

I also noticed for the first time this year that we are into perpetual daylight. It's most likely been like this for a while, but I suddenly looked at my watch on Saturday night (found my watch!) and realised that it was after midnight and still broad daylight. I love Icelandic summers.

This photo was taken about 12.10 am on Saturday evening.

Drunks of Austurvöllur and other anecdotes


Here is a report of what I did on the weekend. Saturday was cloudy and drizzly, which made hiking in Hveragerði kind of a stupid idea. This is what I did all the same. Stacey had some friends over from America and we all went to walk up Reykjadalur to a geothermal river, which we ambitiously intended to swim in. Stacey had done it last year and said it was really good. The weather was much better then, though. We were basically walking in a cloud, and it was super muddy and wet. We had to take our shoes off to cross the river at one point, and it was much less fun than last weekend (although the water was a lot warmer) because instead of hot, dry moss at the far bank there was just more cold mud and no chance of your feet drying. We got to the swimming bit, got changed in the cold mist and duly went into the river. It was tepid rather than hot, I would say, and too shallow really. Not one of my best geothermal experiences in Iceland. It did look as though it would be a nice walk in the sunshine, though, and the river would probably be more fun then too. I'm not writing Reykjadalur off - it clearly was not at its best last Saturday.

Then of course it was the Eurovision finals - the party this year was at Stacey's flat. I was pleased because she gets the BBC so we could watch the Graham Norton commentary, which is much better than the Icelandic coverage. I thought Italy was the best, but to be fair I was losing a lot of my critical faculties as the evening progressed. I was more drunk than I have been in a long time. Probably using an entire mini-bottle of vodka in one drink was not the best idea, and unfortunately my countries for the drinking game that goes with the points-awarding section were Iceland and Serbia, who did OK and very well respectively. I had a good time talking to Stacey's work friends, and Ahmad and Thomas were there for a bit as I recall. After the Eurovision we went downtown, to B5. This is not somewhere I would have chosen to go, and it's definitely not somewhere I'm going again. 900 kr. for a beer! And outrageously an ordinary Tuborg is the same price as Tuborg Classic. A short time after we arrived there I managed to destroy my SIM card. I'm not sure how, but it got onto the screen where it asks for your PIN. I kept pressing the button with "O" on it rather than "0", and after a while it started to suspect that I didn't know my PIN and asked for my PUK instead. I became distressed at the non-functionality of my phone and decided to go home to resolve this, strewed the contents of my "important pieces of paper" file all over the bathroom floor, and found the PUK from my bank account. I entered this number over and over again (which of course has nothing to do with my phone) until the SIM card gave up and committed suicide. So now I have to go to Síminn and get a new one. I suppose this will teach me a lesson or something? Although probably not.

Sunday was sunny and lovely. As is traditional in good weather in Reykjavík, Grétar and I went down to Austurvöllur (after I had recovered from the worst of the hangover), where we met Helgi and lounged around on the grass. We got some sandwiches, I did some colouring in in a little Paddington Bear colouring book that I found at work, was just dozing off in the sunshine when I heard some sort of commotion. Looked up and there was a woman completely off her face, definitely something other than alcohol involved, just going nuts. She had apparently taken a disliking to a group of young men drinking cans on the wall and was screaming abuse at them, spitting on them, hurling herself at them. After a while a friend of hers turned up (also smashed) and wrestled her to the ground in a strangle hold whilst she was kicking him and shouting. Eventually the police came along and arrested the woman, then came back to arrest the man as well. Then a bit later two of the alcoholics in residence (there are always a few on the benches in Austurvöllur) got up and pushed another sleepy-looking alcoholic into a bin so hard that the bin fell over and the hapless róni just lay there floundering like an upturned turtle until some people pulled him to his feet. So there was plenty to watch. I suppose the sunshine puts the drunks in high spirits just like the rest of us.

Then we went to Ingólfstorg, which is the skater and motorbike square. We got ourselves some ice-creams and sat and watched the kids fall off their skateboards again and again, completely failing to get any combo bonuses. At one point a stark naked man skateboarded right across the square in front of us - I assume some sort of dare. In the evening we went to see Men In Black III at the Háskólabíó, which was a mixed bag to be honest, but all in all a good weekend I think. 

Today is Whit Monday, so I don't have to go in to work until 12.30, which I did not realise until I had walked to the bus stop this morning. Nice to have the morning off, though - I just got back from a cycle to the Seltjarnarnes lighthouse. I think actually maybe I will cycle to work as well, the weather is so great. Plus I have a helmet now so that I am less likely to die at the hands of a Reykjavík motorist, "youth" size from Hagkaup, with red flames on it and everything. Ógeðslega flottur sko. 

Glymur

Hæ krakkar. Well, life goes on much the same here in Iceland, much as it does in most other countries I imagine. Work, eat, sleep, friends, boyfriend, drinks, parties, pubs, cafés, swimming, etc. Some news: 

1. I have an exam in a week in which I will have to translate a three hundred word text from Icelandic to English, to see if I am clever enough to get into Háskóli Íslands. I think I probably will be.

2. My friend Christina is leaving Iceland to go travelling in South America for a year. Sad growls. But this does mean that I get her bicycle, so there is a silver lining. We had a goodbye/bicycle party at our flat last Friday. The next day Grétar and I cycled to the pool in Seltjarnarnes (which is really not very far away) and it is evident that my legs have forgotten how to do this. I need to build up some bike muscles again... 

3. I have lost my watch. I am quite upset about this.

The weather's been absolutely fantastic - spring-time in Iceland is probably the best thing in the world. The summer birds are all here and it's stopped getting dark. A few times it's been warm enough to go out without a coat. On Sunday in fact it was full on t-shirt weather, got up to fourteen or fifteen degrees. Christina, Kalli, Grétar and I went to Hvalfjörður and hiked to Glymur, the tallest waterfall in Iceland. It was so hot and sunny that I got a bit burnt round my neck. Otherwise the tan is coming on nicely.

Hiking up the top of the valley, looking out towards where Hvalfjörður opens into the sea.

A glimpse of the top of the waterfall coming over the ridge.

The waterfall Glymur itself. It was much more beautiful than this photo. Very high. You can see the fulmars nesting on the cliffs to the right.

Kalli during our lunch break.
Walking companions.
Beyond the top of the waterfall, following the river to the lake Hvalvatn.
Christina and Kalli fording the river. It was really, really cold on bare feet. It was the first time I've forded an Icelandic river on foot!
Grétar makes it to the other side.
Feet drying (and warming up) in the sun.
Hvalvatn.
Then we walked back along the river to Glymur again, but on the other side this time.
The background came out really hazy on a lot of my photos, because it was so bright. The weather really couldn't have been better.
Some little fosses building up to the big one.
Such a beautiful spot.
I practice my intrepid explorer pose.
Probably one of the best waterfalls I have seen in Iceland.

Tiger and Life

This is not a post about anything, just a series of pictures and things from my life. Today is a national holiday in Iceland. It's May Day; we're celebrating the struggle for workers' rights and that. In our house we have just finished turning one of the walls into a shrine to Páll Óskar, which was definitely a good idea. 

Thomas with the majesty of the Páll Óskar wall. As it said on the packet, these are indeed 34 gordjöss póstkort fyrir alla fjölskylduna.
It looks well good. In order to stick these up I went to Tiger yesterday to get some blue tac. Guess what it's called in Danish?

Much better name for it! Although I wonder if there actually is a resemblance, and how do they know?
Tiger is great. It was Bjarni's birthday yesterday, so as well as my elefantsnot, I also got him a lollipop, a card, and probably the most pointless item in the entire shop: Be Quiet plasters! I also got these for my brother's birthday, because they are excellent. They are just plasters with stupid things written on them, apparently designed by recovering Danish drug-addicts as a communication aid (because sometimes it is difficult to say "be honest" with your mouth). We went to Hemmi og Valdi for some birthday beers with Bjarni last night and the plasters were a big hit. 

Grétar modelling the "Do you understand what I am saying?" plaster.
Today we are mostly hanging around the house. Thomas, Hlín, Högni and I just went for ice-cream at Ísbúðin Vesturbæjar. Ahmad is preparing hummus and other delicious things for an Arabic food evening, so we've got some friends coming over later. I suppose we should be marching for our rights or something, but this seems more relaxing.

Our living room is amazing.
Wegetable prep.
Högni gets to grips with the finer points of the art of photography.
Bravo, Christina and me in Babalú on Sunday. Look, I am wearing different clothes.
Stacey and Ahmad in Babalú. Enjoying the book of Glen Baxter cartoons.
Our toothbrush holder. This excellent mug sadly suffered a hairline fracture in transit to Iceland, but luckily I was able to find it a new role.

I am sure you enjoyed this unfocused glimpse of my home, friends and life.

Easter in the West Fjords

This year, like last year, I spent Easter up in the West Fjords. I went with Grétar, and we stayed in a guest-house in Bolungarvík, which is a little place quite close to Ísafjörður. There is a tunnel that goes through the mountains connecting the two towns. Grétar's friend Símon and various others were also staying in Bolungarvík, in someone's grandmother's house. Grétar and I drove up on the Friday (föstudagurinn langi, or the long Friday, as good Friday is known is Iceland), stopped in Reykjanes to go swimming again, and made it to Bolungarvík about an hour before the Aldrei fór ég suður music festival started. It was in the same warehouse as last year, biggest names playing were probably Mugison (who we missed), Retro Stefson, Sykur and Páll Óskar. Those are moderately big names in Iceland, honest. I also missed Snorri Helgason, which I was annoyed about. We were sheltering in the car from some country and western band from America, and I think he was playing right after them.

It was a lot of fun, although on the Saturday night we managed to go through the tunnel no fewer than four times. We drove into Ísafjörður and had dinner there, before heading to the Aldrei fór ég suður warehouse. An evening of music and gin and vodka, before we found our way onto the shuttle bus and arrived back at the guest-house to discover that we didn't have our keys. Grétar rang the guy who ran the place and he said he'd be there at some point in the future - I don't remember how long he said but it seemed like a long time. Some American girls were going into the same guest-house, and offered to just let us through the outer door - then we could have waited inside. In a cloud of drunken confusion though, we thought the keys were probably in Grétar's car, so got a taxi back to Ísafjörður, where we failed to find the keys. So we got the shuttle bus back to Bolungarvík, and the man let us in. Then we found our keys on the chair inside our unlocked room. Skills!

To be honest, we didn't do an awful lot other than the music festival. Some pretty serious napping took place, we mooched around Ísafjörður a bit, ate Easter eggs, and one day we went to the Natural History Museum in Bolungarvík. It had a stuffed polar bear and a flamingo which had apparently come over to Iceland with a flock of swans, in some fit of confusion. I suppose the Icelanders were so surprised that they immediately stuffed it and put it in a museum. But that was pretty much it, because the weather was much, much worse than last year. Mostly it was just cloudy, with occasional rain, but on the Sunday night the temperature dropped, the wind picked up and it began to snow. By Monday morning the weather had reached a point where it was considered inadvisable to drive over the heath. We went over to the house where Símon and co were staying and weighed up our options. Finally decided to just go for it around four in the afternoon. Símon was driving a jeep, and we went behind in Grétar's Honda Civic. It was probably not the best idea in the world, the weather was so dreadful up there. There are yellow poles along the sides of the road to help in such conditions, but we could only see one set at a time through the gale and snow. We went veeeery slowly, following the vague grey shape of the jeep and luckily made it down the other side, and eventually back to Reykjavík, unscathed. 

Now I Remember...

Sometimes it's all too easy to forget why on earth I would want to live in Iceland, especially in the cold, dark winter months. And then we have days like this.

Stacey and I bought sandwiches downtown and came to Heiðmörk. As you can see, the weather is impossibly perfect. And it's been like this all week!
Spot Hallgrímskirkja. And Snæfellsnes in the background - visibility was amazing.
Nice clouds.
I think I am wearing this same shirt in almost every picture of me that I have put on this blog. This is merely coincidence! I do own other clothes.
Spot the Seltjarnarnes lighthouse.
6° and sunny is totally ice-cream weather in Iceland!
After the ice-cream stop in Garðabær, we headed to Álftanes to see the President. This is his house, Bessastaðir. It has an OK view, I suppose.
Good old Reykjavík.

This evening Árni, Kevin and Christina are coming over for dinner. Life is pretty amazing today. It doesn't take much to make me happy, just sunshine and friends and mountains really. Beer and ice-cream help also.